Kraton Kasepuhan
At the southern end of Jl. Lemah Wungkuk, Kraton Kasepuhan is the oldest and the best preserved of Cirebon's kraton. Built in 1527, its architecural style is a curious bled of Sundanese, Javanese, Islamic, Chinese and Dutch. Although this is the home of the sultan of Kasepuhan, part of the building is open to visitors. Inside is a pavilion with walls dotted with blue and white Delft tiles (many depicting biblical scenes), a marble floor and a ceiling hung with glittering French chandeliers.
The Kraton Museum has an interesting, if poorly display collection of wayang puppets, keris, cannons, furniture, Portuguese armour (weighing in at an impressive 45kg) and acient royal clothes. The piece de rasistance is the Kereta Singa Barong, a 16th century dilded chariot with the the trunk of an elephant (Hind), the body and head of a dragon (Chinese - Buddhist), golden wings (Egypting - Islamic) and the paws of a tiger.
It was traditionally pulled by four white buffaloes and the suspension apparently flapped the wings and waggled the creature's tongue. It is quite possibly the wildest carriage you'll ever see.
Entry to the kraton includes a guided tour, which finishes in the kraton's museum. Here there are spice boxes, French crystal and relics from Portugal and Holland. look out for the Javanese - Hindu Kama Sutra woodcarving.
On the western side of the field in front of Kraton Kasepuhan is Masjid Agung. One of the oldest mosques in Java, it has a tiered roof and is similar in style to Masjid Agung in Banten
Kraton Kanoman
A short walk from Kraton Kasepuhan, Kraton Kanoman was constructed in 1588 but now in poor shape. The Kanoman dynasty was founded by Sultan Badaruddin, who broke away from the main sultanate after a lineage dispute with the sixth sultan's heir. Outside the kraton is red brick, Balinese style compound and a massive banyan tree, Further on past the white stone lions is the kraton, a smaller, neglected cousin of Kraton Kasepuhan
The Museum here has some intriguing carvings (one ffeaturing a reptile king) amidst layers of dust. Again it's the sultan's chariot that steals the whow, however. This version is in exactly the same style as the one over in Kraton Kasepuhan, but here they claim that theirs is the original - rivalry for the sultanate still exists, it seems. The pendopo (large opensided pavilion) and its inner altar were closed for renovati at the time of research.
The colorful Pasar Kanoman just in front of the kraton is at its most vibrant in the morning and is worth a visit in its own right
Kraton Kacirebonan
Although it's classed as a kraton, this is really only a house occupied by memers of the current royal family, descendants of Raja Kanomin, who broke away from the 10th Kasepuhan sultanate. Wander in, knock on the door and someone will be happy to show you around. Build in 1839, the house has fine colonial architecure and small collection of swords, documents and other royal memorabilia.
Gua Sunyaragi
Approximately 4km southwest of town is this bizarre ruined cave - a grotto of rocks, red brick and plaster, honeycombed with secret chambers, tiny doors and staircases that lead nowhere. It was originally a water palace for a sultan of Cirebon in the early 18th century and owes its present shape to a Chinese architect who had a go at it in 1852. It's often frequented by local students who, at the sight of a tourist, are more than happy to practise their English, even from 5om away
Around Cirebon
In the royal cementery, 5km north of Cirebon is the tomb of Sunan Gunungjati, who died in 1570. The most revered of Cirebon's kings, Gunungjati was also one of the nine wali songo (saintly men who spread Islam throughout Java) and his tomb is one of the holiest place in the country. The inner tombs are only open once a month on Kliwon Thursday of the Javanese calendar (the calendar is a combination of the normal seven day week and the five day Javanese market week), and at Idul Fitri and Maulud Nabi Muhammed. Pilgrims sit in contemplation and pray outside the doors on other days. Along from Sunan Gunungjati's tomb is the tomb of his first wife, who was Chinese - this tomb attracts Chinese worshippers
Linggarjati, a small mountain resort 23km south of Cirebon, was assured of its place in the history books when in 1946 representative of the republic government and the returning Dutch occupying forces met to negotiate a British sponsored cooperation agreement. Term were therased out in a colonial hotel at the foot of Gunung Ceremai (3078m), once a retreat from the heat for Cirebon's but the Linggarjati aggreement was soonswept aside as the war for independence escalated. The hotel is now Gedung Naksa, a nuseum recreating the events.
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