Cilacap

Cilacap

Built between 1861 and 1879,  Benteng Pendem  is an impressive Dutch fort complex at the entrance to the old harbour. It has intact barracks (bring a torch to explore properly, as they’re rather dark) and massive ramparts, and is one of the bestpreserved colonial garrisons in Java.
The fort overlooks a long stretch of dirty sand,  Pantai Teluk Penyu. This popular local beach has souvenir stalls that sell an array of shells and trinkets.
For better beaches – complete with white sand – head to  Nusa Kambangan , a long island south of the port. This island contains no fewer than four high-security prisons (and five inactive ones); former inmates have in­ cluded the Bali bombers and Tommy Suharto. There are fine beaches to explore, but swim­ ming can be treacherous. Keep a lookout for white-bellied fish eagles surfing the thermals. Ferries sail from Cilacap at 7am (30,000Rp) and return in the late afternoon.

Cirebon

Kraton Kasepuhan

At the southern end of Jl. Lemah Wungkuk, Kraton Kasepuhan is the oldest and the best preserved of Cirebon's kraton. Built in 1527, its architecural style is a curious bled of Sundanese, Javanese, Islamic, Chinese and Dutch. Although this is the home of the sultan of Kasepuhan, part of the building is open to visitors. Inside is a pavilion with walls dotted with blue and white Delft tiles (many depicting biblical scenes), a marble floor and a ceiling hung with glittering French chandeliers.
The Kraton Museum has an interesting, if poorly display collection of wayang puppets, keris, cannons, furniture, Portuguese armour (weighing in at an impressive 45kg) and acient royal clothes. The piece de rasistance is the Kereta Singa Barong, a 16th century dilded chariot with the the trunk of an elephant (Hind), the body and head of a dragon (Chinese - Buddhist), golden wings (Egypting - Islamic) and the paws of a tiger.
It was traditionally pulled by four white buffaloes and the suspension apparently flapped the wings and waggled the creature's tongue. It is quite possibly the wildest carriage you'll ever see.
Entry to the kraton includes a guided tour, which finishes in the kraton's museum. Here there are spice boxes, French crystal and relics from Portugal and Holland. look out for the Javanese - Hindu Kama Sutra woodcarving.
On the western side of the field in front of Kraton Kasepuhan is Masjid Agung. One of the oldest mosques in Java, it has a tiered roof and is similar in style to Masjid Agung in Banten

Kraton Kanoman

A short walk from Kraton Kasepuhan, Kraton Kanoman was constructed in 1588 but now in poor shape. The Kanoman dynasty was founded by Sultan Badaruddin, who broke away from the main sultanate after a lineage dispute with the sixth sultan's heir. Outside the kraton is red brick, Balinese style compound and a massive banyan tree, Further on past the white stone lions is the kraton, a smaller, neglected cousin of Kraton Kasepuhan
The Museum here has some intriguing carvings (one ffeaturing a reptile king) amidst layers of dust. Again it's the sultan's chariot that steals the whow, however. This version is in exactly the same style as the one over in Kraton Kasepuhan, but here they claim that theirs is the original - rivalry for the sultanate still exists, it seems. The pendopo (large opensided pavilion) and its inner altar were closed for renovati at the time of research.
The colorful Pasar Kanoman just in front of the kraton is at its most vibrant in the morning and is worth a visit in its own right

Kraton Kacirebonan

Although it's classed as a kraton, this is really only a house occupied by memers of the current royal family, descendants of Raja Kanomin, who broke away from the 10th Kasepuhan sultanate. Wander in, knock on the  door and someone will be happy to show you around. Build  in 1839, the house has fine colonial architecure and small collection of swords, documents and other royal memorabilia.


Gua Sunyaragi

Approximately 4km southwest of town is this bizarre ruined cave - a grotto of rocks, red brick and plaster, honeycombed with secret chambers, tiny doors and staircases that lead nowhere. It was originally  a water palace for a sultan of Cirebon in the early 18th century and owes its present shape to a Chinese architect who had a go at it in 1852. It's often frequented by local students who, at the sight of a tourist, are more than happy to practise their English, even from 5om away

Around Cirebon

In the royal cementery, 5km north of Cirebon is the tomb of Sunan Gunungjati, who died in 1570. The most revered of Cirebon's kings, Gunungjati was also one of the nine wali songo (saintly men who spread Islam throughout Java) and his tomb is one of the holiest place in the country. The inner tombs are only open once a month on Kliwon Thursday of the Javanese calendar (the calendar is a combination of the normal seven day week and the five day Javanese market week), and at Idul Fitri and Maulud Nabi Muhammed. Pilgrims sit in contemplation and pray outside the doors on other days. Along from Sunan Gunungjati's tomb is the tomb of his first wife, who was Chinese - this tomb attracts Chinese worshippers
Linggarjati, a small mountain resort 23km south of Cirebon, was assured of its place in the history books when in 1946 representative of the republic government and the returning Dutch occupying forces met to negotiate a British sponsored cooperation agreement. Term were therased out in a colonial hotel at the foot of Gunung Ceremai (3078m), once a retreat from the heat for  Cirebon's but the Linggarjati aggreement was soonswept aside as the war for independence escalated. The hotel is now Gedung Naksa, a nuseum recreating the events.

Pangandaran

Taman Nasional Pangandaran

Taman Nasional Panganadaran which take up the entire southern end of Pangandaran is a wild expanse of dense jungle. Within its boundaries live porcupines, kijang (barking deer), hornbills, scorpions and monkeys (including Javan gibbons). Small bays with in the park enclose pretty tree fringed beaches. Occasionally, the park is even used as a temporary home for elephants being transported around archipelago
The park is devided into two sections :  the recreation park and the jungle. Due to environmental degradation, the jungle is usually off limits. It's possible to follow the stone path in the recreation park, which has a few small caves and a couple of nice beaches on the eastern side, but trails can be muddy and quite tricky to follow.
Like most south coast beaches, the surf can be treacherous, particulary the northern end of the west beach where people still drown regularly. South from Bumi Nusantara Hotel, the beach is patrolled (sometimes) and is sheltered by the headland, so swimming is safer. Pangandaran's best beach, Pasir Putih on the western side of the national park, is now off limits to stop the hordes that have destroyed the coral reef.
At sunset huge fruits bats emerge from the forest in search of insects. They fly right down the length of Pangandaran's beach but have to evade local boys who patrol with barbed wire kites.
Surfing lessons are offered at the northern end of the beach. Pangandaran is a good place to learn and local instructors have soft boards ideal for beginners.

West of Pangandaran

Heading west of town you travel along a pretty but busy coastal road lined with palm trees that runs through small vilages and paddy fields. The once popular backpacker hang out of Cikembulan just west of Pangandaran was wiped out by the 2006 tsunami.
At the tiny village of Ciokoto, 6km along this road there's large wayang golek workshop, with high quality puppets. Next up is Karang Tirta, a lagoon set back from the beach with bagang (fishing platforms). It's 16km from Pangandaran and 2km south of the highway, Batu Hiu (Shark Rock) is 23 km from Pangandaran and 1km from the highway, and has recreational park atop the cliffs with views along the coast
Inland from Parigim bear Cigugur, Gunung Tilu hilltop has fine views and is included in some of the tour iteneraries. Sungai Citumang is reached by arough and  hard to find inland road from Karang Benda, and has a small to a beautiful gorge - "Green Canyon II" in Pangandaran tour parlance

Batu Karas

The idyllic fishing village and emerging surfing hot spot of Batu Karas, 32km west of Pangandaran, is one of the most enjoyable places to kick back in Java. It's tiny one lane settlement, separated by a wooded promotory, and has a low key, very relaxed charm. There are two fine beaches, with sheltered sections that are usually calm enough for good swiming, but most visitors are here for the breaks and there's alot of surf talk. This is one of the best places in Java to learn to surf. The locally run surf co-op here charges 80.000 IDR per person per day for lessons, board hire is extra (around 35.000 IDR)


Green Canyon

The number one tour from Pangandaran is to Green Canyon (Cujang Taneuh). It's clearly signposted at several points along the highway. Many tour operators in Pangandaran run trip here for 150.000 IDR and include "country side" excursions to make a full day tour. To get there yourself, hire aboat from the Green Canyon river harbour on the highway, 1km before the turn off to Batu Karas, Boats cost 75.000 IDR for maximum of five people and operate daily from 7.30am to4pm. They travel up the jungle fringed, emerald green river to waterfall and a beautiful canyon where there's swiming (though the current is ofen strong here). Boat men work on a return trip schedule of just 45 minutes, which only gives you about 15 minutes to swim and explore the narrowest and most beautiful part of the canyon. If you want to stay longer you'll have to pay extra.

Tasikmalaya

For cheap rattan crafys, for which the area is famous, visit the village of Rajapolah (12km north of Tasikmalaya on the road to Bandung) where many of weavers works.
The hot spring Cipanas Galunggung is 20km northwest and lies at the foot of Gunung Galunggung (2168m), a volcano that exploded dramatically in 1982, killing68 poeple. From the hot springs recreation park, a trial leads to a small waterfall and then on to Galunggung crater, 3km away. A steep road to the crater is an easier walk but less scenic. From Tasikmalaya's main bus terminal take an angkot to Banjar on the highway. From there, ojek will cover the final 14km along arough road for around 25.000 IDR
Situ Lengkong is about 40km north of Tasikmalaya and 500m from the village of Panjalu. It's a serene lake that was formed when the Hindu ruler of Panjalu dammed the valley. There is a forested island in the middle and boats can be hired to take you around the lake. Panjalu village has a small museum containing the heirlooms of the king of Panjalu. Situ Lengkong can be reached by bus from Tasikmalaya or from Kawali termina, where angkot run the 20km to Ciamis
On the highway to Banjar and Pangandaran 16km southeast of Ciamis, Karang Kamulyan is the excavated site of the ancient Galuh Kingdom. It's often said that Galuh was both the Hindu and the first Muslim Kingdom in Java, but this Neolithic settlement dating from around the 5th century points to the pre Hindu period. Only a few stone walls and foundations remain of the palace, store, prayer and bathing areas, but it is a beautiful walk through the jungle and bamboo groves down to the confluence of the swift Ciliwung and Citanduy rivers. Alarge car park and government built cottages next to the park are attempts to make it a major tourist stop

Garut

Cangkuang Temple

Near leles, about 10km north of Garut, is Cangkuang Temple, which is one of the few remaining Hindu temples in West Java. Dating from the 8th century, some of its stones were found to have been carved into tombstones for a nearby Islamic cementery. The restored temple lies on the edge of Situ Cangkuang a small lake. It has become something of a tourist trap, but it's a beautiful spot. From garut take a green angkot to Leles on the highway and then another angkot or horse drawn dilman (two wheeled buggy) for the 3km to Cangkuang Temple. Rafts across the  lake to temple cost 25.000 IDR




Gunung Papandayan

28km to southwest of Garut, twin peaked Gunung Papandayan is one of the most active volcanoes in West Java. Papandayan exploded in 1772, a catastrophe that killed more than 3000. It erupted again in 2002, and thousands were forded to flee when pyroclastic flows devastated the area.
The bubbling yellow crater (Kawah Papandayan) just below the peak is  an impressive sight and clearly visible from the Garut valley on clear mornings. To get there, take a Cikajang minibus and get off the turn off on the outskirts of Cisurupan where u can catch a waiting ojek (motorcycle rental)
From the car park area it is an easy half hour walk to the crater, which is riddled with bubbling mud pools, steam vents and crumbling sulphur deposits. Take care - keep well to the right when ascending through the crater.

Gunung Telagabodas

To the east of Garut town, Gunung Telagabodas (2201m) has bubbling green sulphurous crater lake. To get to Telagabodas take an angkot to Wanaraja and an ojek to the parking area and then walk to the crater. Craters to the west of Garut that can be visited are Kawah Darajat, 26km away and Kawah Kamojang, 23km away, the site of a geothermal plant that has defused the once specatular geyser activity and replaced it with huge pipes

Bandung

City Centre

The Musium Konfrensi inside the Gedung Merdeka is dedicated to the Asia Africa confrence of 1955. The scanty exhibits are pretty disappointing,  but there are a few interesting photos of Sukarno, Nehru, Ho Chi Minh, Nasser and other developing world leaders of the 1950s
For a birds eye view of central Bandung climp the easterly tower of Masjid Agung, next to the alun - alun. There are some very fine Dutch art deco strutcures to admire on Jl. Jendral Sudirman and Jl. Asia Afrika, two of the best being the Grand Hotel Preanger and the Savoy Homann Hotel, both of which have imposing facedes.

North of The City

About 3km north of the centre, the Museum Geologi is housed in the massive old headquarters of the Dutch Geological Service. It's a good place to get to grips with all matters geological and volcanic in Indonesia, through there's almost no information in English. Nevertheless it's worth an hour or so poking around the lava stones, crystals and bones that include a model of Tyrannosaurus rex and a mamnoth.
While you're in the neighbourhood, dip into the Museum Prangko in the northeastern corner of the Gedung Sate complex. As well as thousands of stamps from around the world, the museum has everything from postboxes to pushcarts used since colonial times.

Bandung Institute of Technology

Further north of Gedung Sate is the Bandung Institute of Technology, set in spacious grounds and gardens with some bizarre hybrid Indo European architecture.
Open in 1920, ITB was the first university open to Indonesians. Sukarno studied here and formed the Bandung Study Club, which later grew into the pro-independence Partai Nasional Indonesia (PNI).
The institute has maintained a reputation for political activism, and students here published the White Book of the 1978 Students' Struggle, which alleged corruption in high places. In 1998, in the lead up to Suharto's downfall, up to 100.000 students rallied daily
The ITB also has an excellent fine arts school, and its art gallery can be visited. A cross from the main gate is a useful canteen in the asrama mahasiswa (studentt dorm complex), where many of the students congregate.

Dago

 At the end of Jl. Merdeka, Jl Juanda climbs up to Dago Hill to the north, overlooking the city. The famous, but now very faded, Dago Thee Huis offers city views throung a tangle of power lines and a forest of radio towers. The complex has a cafe restaurant, outdoor and indoor theatres and a small children's playground.
On the main road, 100m past the teahouse turn off, a path leads down to Curug Dago. From here you can walk along the river to Taman Hutan Raya Ir. H. Juanda , which is a  pleasant forest park with another waterfall and walking paths. By road, the park entrance is 2km past the Dago bemo terminal
Gua Pakar is in fact an ammunition store hacked out by the Japanese during the war. Further north is Gua Belanda, which is the same deal but built by the Dutch. A tunnel cuts right through the mountain to the start of the trail that leads all the way to Maribaya along Sungai Cikapundung

Lembang

The town of Lembang was once hoted hill resort but is now a busy little market town. Most visitors keep heading further up the hills, but if you're looking for a quick break from Bandung, 16km to the south then it's a decent option
The colonial era Grand Hotel Lembang dates from 1921 and was once a fashionable base for the Dutch. It's sprawling place with 191 recently renovated rooms and a smart, modren bistro plus beautiful gardens and tennis courts

Maribaya Hot Springs

Maribaya, 5km east of Lembang, has a thermal spa, landscaped gardens and a thundering waterfall. It's another tourist sport, crowded on Sunday, but worth visiting. You can extend your Tangkuban Perahu trip by walking from the bottom end of the gardens down through a brillliant, deep and wooded river gorge all the way to Dago.
There's a good track, and if you allow about two hour for the walk (6km) you can be at a Dago vantage point for sunset. From there is only a short trip by angkot back to Bandung


Tangkuban Perahu

The "overturned perahu" volcano creater is 30km north of Bandung. Years ago the centre of Tangkuban Perahu collapsed under the weight of built up ash and, instead of the usual conical volcano shape, it has a flat, elongated, summit with a huge caldera.
At 2076m Tangkuban Perahu can be quite cool and around noon the mist starts to roll in through the trees, so try to go early. The creater is easily accessible by car so its very much a tourist trap
At the creater are an information centre, warung and  a parade of pedlars hustling postcards, souvenirs and other junk. It's a tracky jumble that detracts from the scenery, but you can escape this bedlam of activity.
The huge creater is an mpressive sight. Tangkuban Perahu still emits sulphur fumes access to the volcano is occasionally denied when volcanic activity increases, but it's usually open. The last serious eruption occured in 1969
It's possible to circumnavigate most of the caldera in around two hours. Kawah Ratu is the huge "Queen Creater" at the top. Walk around the rim of the main creater for about 20 minutes for view of the secondary creater, Kawah Upas. The trail leads further along a ridge between the two creaters and returns to the car park, but it is steep and slippery in part - exercise caution.
A better and less crowded walk is to Kawah Domas, a volcanic area of steaming and bubling geysers that can be reached by a side trail to the top. You can also head off across country towards Ciater or Lembang.
Just north of the town of Cikole, the outdoor centre Taman Wisata Alam has a camp site and basic wooden bungalows. Cooking facilities are avaiable, or there's a tiny restaurant for meals.

Cianjur

Puncak Pass Area

Snaking through sleepy tea plantations and terraced fields, the road over the 1500m - high Puncak Pass between Bogor and Cianjur rolls through some of West Java's most sensational scenary. But sadly the Puncak area has fallen victim to its own beauty : usually gridlocked the highway is lined by an ugly sprawl of overpriced motels, factory shopping outlets monium ( and buses are not even allowed to use the highway because of the congestion) That said, there are a couple of plesant highland hotels




Taman Safari Indonesia

Just east of Cisarua, about 12km from Bogor, is the turn off to Taman Safari Indonesia. A drive trough safari park with animals including zebras and red pandas, children's rides, animal shows, a pool and plenty of restaurants. A park bus does tours for those without a car.





Cibodas

Cibodas, the next village over the Puncak Pass is famous for its stunning gardens, The Kebun Raya Cibodas, which are an extention of the Bogor botanical gardens. Spread over the steep lower slopes of Gunung Gede and Gunung Pangrango at an altitude of 1300m to 1440m, these lush gardens are one of the dampest places in Java. The Dutch tried to cultivate quinine here ( its bark is used in malaria medication), through the East Javan climates proved more suitables.
You will find an outstanding collection of ferns, palms, 65 species of eucalypt, Mexican mountain pines, and glasshouses bursting with cacti and succulents. Aroad loops around the gardens, passing via Japanese garden with its cherry trees, and there are also paths leading through forests of bamboo to impressive Cismun waterfall

Gede Pangrango

The Cibodas garden are right next to the main entrance to Gede Pangrango National Park, the highlight of which is the climb to the 2958m peak of the volcanically active Gunung Gede, From the top of Gede on a clear day you can see Jakarta, Cirebon and even Pelabuhan Ratu on the south coast.
From Cibodas, the trail passes Tegala Biru which is a blue green lake, Cibeureum Falls lie just off the main trail. Most picnickers only go this far, trhough some continue on to the hot springs. The trail countinue to climb another to Kandang Badak where a hut has been built on the saddle between  the peaks of Gunung Gede and Gunung Pangrango. Take the trail to the right for a hard 3 hour climb to Pangrango. Most hikers turn left for easier, but still steep, 1.5 hour climb to Gede, which has more spectacular views. The Gede Creater lies below the summit, and you can continue on to the Suryakencana Maedow.
The 10km hike right to the top of Gunung Gede takes at least 10 hours there and back, so you should start as early as possible and take warm clothes ( night temperatures can drop to 5 celcius degree), food, water, and a torch (flashlight)

Sukabumi

Pelabuhan Ratu

At the rear of a huge horseshoes - shaped bay, about 90 km south of Bogor, Pelabuhan Ratu is a popuar seaside retreat for Jakartans. The town itself is pretty humdrum - saved only by its long black sand  beach and the colourfull outrigger fishing boats crowding the harbour. Most people come here for the fine surf beaches to the west
Legend has it that Pelabuhan Ratu ( Which translates as "Harbour of the Queen") actually  witnessed the creation of Nyai Loro Kidul, the malevolent goddess who takes fisherman and swimmer off to her watery kingdom. Dont wear green on the beach or in the water (its her colour) and in the Hotel Indonesia Samudra a room is set aside for meditating mystics wishing to contact the Queen of the South Sea

Cimaja

Aside from its huge fish market, Pelabuhan Ratu won't jold your interest for long - it's best to head west once you've got your bearing. Cimaja, 8 km west Pelabuhan Ratu, has a pebble beach and some of the south coast's best waves at the Ombak Tujuh (Seven Waves) surf break. This is also the place to arrange diving, fishing or  motorcycling trips.


Pantai Karang Hawu

Pantai Karang Hawu, 13 km west of Pelabuhan Ratu, is towering cliff with caves, rocks and pools created by a large lava flow. According to legend, it was from the rock of Karang Hawu that Nyai Loro Kidul Leapt into the mighty ocean to regain her lost beauty and never returned. Strais lead up to small kramat (shrine) at the top




Cipanas hot springs

About 2 km past Cisolok, are the Cipanas hot springs. Boiling water sprays into the river, and you can soak downstream where the hot and cold waters mingle. Its a very scenic area; you can walk a few kilometres upstream through the lush forest to a waterfall. Cipanas has changing sheds, warungs and crowds on the weekend.




Goa Lalay

Goa Lalay is a bat cave that's about 4 km southeast of Pelabuhan Ratu. It's of limited intesest except at sunset, when tousands of small bats flutters off into the night sky

Bogor

Kebun Raya

At the heart of Bogor are the fabulous botanical garden, known as the Kebun Raya, the city's green lung of around 87 hectars. Governor General Raffles first developed a garden here, but the spacious grounds of the Istana Bogor (Presidential Palace) were expanded by Dutch botanist Professsor Reinwardt, with assistance from London's Kew Gardens and officially opened in 1817. It was from these gardens that various colonial cash crops, such as tea, cassava, tobacco and cinchona, were developed by Dutch botanist including Johannes Teysmann, during the infamous Cultivation Period in the 19th century. The park is still a maor centre for botanocal research in Indonesia. This was the one place in Indonesia George W Bush visited when he dropped by the country in 2006
Allow yourself at least half a day to enjoy Kebun Raya, while keen gardener could spen a week here and not be bored. It's tricky to pick out highlights in such a verdant wonderland. There are more than 15.000 species of trees and plants but the gardens are said to contain 400 types of magnificent palms, including the footstool palm native to Indonesia, which tops 40m. There's a good stock of graceful pandan trees and some huge agave and cacti in the mexican section. Drop by the orchid house and take in the lovely ponds, which have giant water lilies over a metre across, and look out monitor lizards, exotic bird life and deer
Near the main entrance of the gardens is a small monument, erected in memory of Olivia Raffles, who died in 1814 and was buried in Batavia. There is also a cementry near the palace with Dutch headstones including the tomb of DJ de Eerens, a former governor general.

Zoological Museum

Near the entrance to the botanical gardens, this museum has a motley but interesting collection of zoological oddities, including the skeleton of a blue whale, giant stick insects, beetles as big a tennis balls and a pooch sized Flores rat.





Istana Bogor

In the northwestern corner of the botanical gardens, the summer palace of the president was formerly the opulent official residence of the Dutch governors general from 1870 to 1942
Today, herds of white spotted deer roam the immaculate lawns and the building contains Sukarno's huge art collection, which largely focuses on the female figure. The palace is only open to groups (minimum 10) by prior arangement and children are not allowed inside.


Batu Tulis

The Batu tulis is an inscribed stone dedicated to Sri Baduga MAharaja (1482-1521), a Pajajaran king credited with great mystical power. The stone is housed in a small shrine visited by pilgrims - remove ur soes and pay a small donation before entering. Batu tulis is 2.5 km south of the botanical gardens, on Jl. Batutulis. It's almost opposite the former home of Sukarno. His request to be buried here was ignored by Suharto, who wanted the former president's grave as far away from the capital as possible.




Batutulis (Purnawarman Stone)

Those in need of reminding that all great empires come to an end can head for Batutulis, where sits the large black boulder on which King Purnawarman inscribed his name and footprint around AD 450. His rather imodest inscription, in the Palawa script of South India, is uncannily reminiscent of Percy Shelly's Ozymandias, and reads : "This is the footstep of King Purnawarman of Tarumanegara Kingdom, the great conqueror of the world"
The ciampea boulder has been raised from its origila place and embedded in the shallow water of Sungai Ciaruteun. The inscription on the stone is still remarkably clear after  more 1500 years
Minibuses make the run to Batutulis form the village of Ciampea about 12 km northwest of Bogor

Gunung Halimun National Park

This national park is home to some primary rainforest, but the park has mixed usage and also includes plantations such as the Nirmala Tea Estate. The dominan feature of the park is the rich montane forest in the highland regions around Gunung Halimun (1929m) which is the highest peak.
Visitor facilities at the park ar undeveloped and park administration is handled by Gede Pangrango National Park at Cibodas, localed some distance away. The most visited attractions in the park are the waterfalls near Cikadang and those near the Nirmala estate, butt the big drawcard is white water rafting.
The usual access (you need your own transport) is through Cibadak on the Bogor - Pelabuhan Ratu road, from where you turn off to Cikadang and then on to the Nirmala Tea Estate. Rainfall in the park is between 4000mm and 6000mm per year, most of which falls from October to May, when a visit is more or less out of the question

Banten

Banten 

One coast due north of Serang, the dusty fishing town of Banten was once a great maritime capital, where the Dutch and English first landed in Java to secure trade and struggle for economic supremacy.
Banten reached its peak during the reign of Sultan Agung (1651 - 1683) and in the 1680 he declared war on the Dutch, but conflict within the royal house ultimately led to his downfall. Agung fled Banten but finally surrendered in 1683, and his defeat marked the real begining of Dutch territorial expansion in Java.
The chief landmark here is the 16th century mosque Masjid Agung, a good example of early Islamic architecture; its great white octagonal minaret was reputedly designed by a Chinese Muslim. Next to the mosque is an archeologocal museum which has a modest collection of local clay artefacts and spikes used by Banten's Debus followers. (The Debus tradition involves masochistic activities like selfpiercing, which faithfull are said to be able to perform without drawing blood)
Directly accross from the mosque is the large grass covered site the early ruler Hasannudin's fortified palace, the Surosowan which was wrecked in the bloody civil war during the reign of Sultan Agung (and again by the Dutch in 1832)
Other points of interest around the mosque include the massive ruins of Fort Speelwijk to northwest; opposite the entrance to the fort is a chinese temple, dating from the 18th century. Back along road to Serang are huge, crumbling walls and archways of Kaibon palace, and nearby is the tomb of Maulana Yusuf, who died in 1580

Anyer and Around

Anyer, some 14 km to the southwest of Cilegon, is easily the most upmarket village along the this coastline. Here you'll find the west coast's semi luxurious resort and decent beaches. Anyer was once a big Dutch port before being totality destroyed by the tidal waves generated bt the Krakatau eruption.
The anyair righthouse dates from 1885
Karang Bolong, 11 km south of Anyer and 30 km north of Lauan, also has a good beach. A huge stand of rock forms a natural archway from the land to the sea

Carita

Carita has a more rustic and laidback feel then Anyer and a certain scruffy charm. The beach is wide, and there's some good swimming and a few moderately priced accommodation options. Trips to Krakatau (opposite) and Ujung kulon Park are best organised here.
The hotel Sunset view is the best place for information. Headig nort from Labuan port, the usual accest point, Carita proper starts around 8 km further on.
About 2 km from Carita over the rice paddies, you can se the village of Sindanglaut (end of the sea) which is where the giant tsunami of 1883 ended its destrctive run. Hutan Wisata Carita is a forest reserve with walks through the hills and jungle. Curug Gendang waterfall is a three hour retorn hike through the reserve


Tanjung Lesung

Tanjung lesung 30 km southwest of Labuhan, is quite and unspoilt penisula with beautiful beaches and traditional Sundanese villages. Accommodation is limited in this region, with no budget option.
Tanjung Lesung Sailing Club has attractive, good valuue cottages with huge beds and mozzie nets in a great setting just off the resort's sandy bay. There's bar and restaurant here and it's obviously a great place for sailors. Sailing instruction is avaiable from english speaking staff


Gunung Krakatau

The legendary peak of Krakatau, the most famous of the world's famous volcanoes, is a name almost everyone knows but few actually know of its location. Resting relative peace some 50 km from the West Java Coast and 40 km from Sumatra, the volcano is nowadays a shadow of its former self, a small group of disconnected islands centred on Anak Krakatau (child of Krakatau) a volcanic mass that has been on the boil since 1928
The highlight of any trip to Krakatau is rounding Rakata island and first glimpsing the menacing peak of Krakatau's child

Ujung Kulon National Park

On the remote southwester tip of Java, this Unesco World Heritage Listed national park covers about 760sq km of land, including large Panaitan island. Because of tts isolation and difficult o access, Ujung Kulon has remained an oytpost of prime rainforest and untouched wilderness in heavily developed Java; alongside some fine opportunities for hiking, its also has good beaches with intact coral reefs. Few poeple visit the park ( which was Indonesia's first national park), but it is one of the most rewarding, if remote environments in all Java.
Ujung Kulon is best known as the last refuge in Indonesia of the one horned Javan Rhinoceros.  There are only thought to be aroun 55 in Ujung Kulon, so it's one of the globe's most critically endangered mammals. That said, nubers are thought to be stable here, and breeding is occurring: in 2006 evidence of at least four baby rhinos was confirmed.
Javan rhinos are an extremely rare sight and you are far more likely to come across banteng (wild cattle), wild pigs, otters, squirrels, leaf monkeys, and gibbons. Panthers also live i forest and crocodiles n the river estuaries, but these are also rare. Gree turtles nest in some of the bays and Ujung Kulon also has wide variety of bird life. On Peucang island, sambar deer, long tailed macaques and big monitor lizards are common, and there is good snorkelling around coral reefs.
The main park area is on the peninsula, but it also includes the nearby island of Panaitan and the smaller offshore islands of Peucang and Handeuleum. Much of the peninsula is dense lowland rainforest and a mizture of scrub, grassy plains, swamps, pandanus palms and long stretches of sandy beach on the west and south coasts. Walking trials follow the coast around much of the peninsula and loop around Gunung Payung on the western tip.

Shopping Centre

Jakarta has more shopping centres than you could spend a month of Sundays in, and the general rule in the capital is, the bigger, the better.

Pasar Pagi Mangga Dua
This is an enormous wholesale market with some of Jakarta's cheapest clothes, accessories and shoes, as well as a host of other goods. Quality can be problem, though.

Mangga Dua Mall
Across the road from Pasar Pagi Mangga Dua, this is the place for computers, electronics, DVDs and CDs (and even Russian watches). The surrounding area has other malls, making it southeast Asia's biggert shopping precinct.

Blok M Mall
This mall by the large bus terminal has scores of small, reasonably priced shops offering clothes, shoes, CDs and DVDs

Plasa Indonesia
Exclusive Plaza Indonesia tops Jakarta's alist for shopping centres, with dozens of designer stores.There's good, surprisingly inexpensive food court in the basement

Plaza Senayan
This huge plaza has a cinema, one of the city's best clubs and stores including Marks and Spencers dan Prada trough prices are very steep

FX Mall 
an upmarket mall in the senayan district, the attraction here is the 72m transparent cylindrical slide that shoots you down six stories in about 12 seonds - spend 100.000 IDR and the ride is free

Seribu Archipelago

Seribu Island
A popular destination for locals and expats alike lies only kilometres from the harbour of Jakarta. Seribu island, a string of islands in Jakarta bay is the perfect respite for those stuck in the capital too long
Despite the misleading name, there are actually only 130 islands in the group, and of these, 37 have been used for commercial purposes. Pramuka island is the group's district centre, but most people live on Kelapa island which is about 15 km north of Jakarta. Near Kelapa island, Panjang island has the only air strip on the islands
The most accessible islands have been developed into resorts with bungalows and water sports. Most of these are expensive by Indonesian standards and charge hefty weekend supplements. That said, they do have white sand beaches and calm, clear seas (aside from the island close to the mainland)

Bidadari Island
This is closest resort island and is popular with Jakarta residents for day trips. It is one of the least interesting resorts, but you can use it to visit other island such as kahyangan island, kelor island ( which has the ruins of an old Dutch fort) or Onrust island (where the remains of an 18th century shipyard can be explored). Boats can be hired for the short trip from Bidadari island for 50.000 IDR per hour.

Anyer Island
Anyer island is a little further north and is an other popular day trip destination. Its resort has comfortable land and floating (built on stilts) cottages plus a small stretch of good beach with cloudy water.

Kotok Island
Near the islands administrative centre is Kotok island, an island with coral reef that's in reasonable condition for snorkelling and diving
On the western side of Kotok, Kul Kul Kotok Island resort is about the quietest and most traditional option, scoring high marks in the deserted - tropical - island stakes. Two dives here cost 1.375.000 IDR. The resort can be booked through its Jakarta Office

Putri Island
About 4 km north of Kelapa island, Putri island has a tunnel aquarium, a scuba -diving school and banana boat trips. Its resort consists of rustic yet charming cottages and has an idyllic setting at the north of the island, it can be booked through PT. Buana Bintang Samudra (Jl Sultan Agung 21 Telp. 021-828 1093)

Sepa Island
Sepa island is another island near Putri island. It's quite small (a foot, it takes about 10 minutes o circumnavigate) and is surrounded by wide stretches of pristine white sand
The rooms at Pulau Sepa Resorts have not water but are quite basic, while its cottages have more character. Book through PT. Pulau Sepa Permai (Jl. Kyai Caringin 20 Telp 021-638 63477)

Entertainment

Taman Ismail Marzuki - Jl. Cikini Raya 73
Taman Ismail Marzuki is Jakarta's principal cultural centre, with a cinema, theatres (performances indlude Javanese dance, plays and gamelan concerts), two art galleries and several restaurants in the complex. The tourist office and listings magazines have program details


Gedung Kesenian Jakarta - Jl Gedung Kesenian 1
Host traditional dance and teatre as well as Erupean classical music and dance

Erasmus Huis - Jl. HR. Rasuna Said Kav S-3
This cultural centre holds regular cultural events and exhibitions

West Pasific - Jl. Thamrin 12
Host indie/alternative bands and also has an extensive restaurant menu. It's below Jaya Pub

BB's - Jl. Cokroaminoto
Really popular with students, this scurffy multi storeyed bar showcases emerging acoustic, blues and reggae bands. Drinks are quite reasonable, especially if you order beer by the pitcher. Friday night is the big night here; entrance is 30.000 IDR

Jaya Pub - Jl. Thamrin 12
This Jakarta institution has been around for more than 30 years and isn't showing signs of slowing down. Expect an older crowd and live bluesy rock performers.

Nine Muses Club - Jl. Wijaya I 25 Kebayoran Baru
Umparket European style bar restaurant where the jazz artists, pianiists and latin bands draw an older crowd

Southern Jakarta Sights

Taman Mini Indonesia Indah

In the city southeast, near Kampung Rambutan, Taman Mini Indonesia Indah is a whole country in one park. This 100 hectare park has full scale traditional houses for each of Indonesia's provinces, with dispays of regional handicraft and clothing, and even a mini scale Borobudur, Museums, Teatres and an IMAX cinema are scattered throughout the  grounds, which all command additional entrance fees. Free cultural performances are staged is selected regional houses (usually around 10am); Sunday is the big day for cultural events, but shows are also held during the week
You can walk or driver your own car around Taman Mini. Free shuttle buses operate reglary, or you can take monorail or cable car that go from one end of the park to the other. Taman Mini is about 18 km from the city centre; allow about an hour to get there and at least three hours to look around. To get there, take a Koridor 7 bus to Kampung Rambutan terminal and then a T15 metromini to the park entrance. A taxi from central Jakarta cozts about 70.000 IDR

Museum Pancasila Sakti

Just north of Taman Mini, this museom is bizare momage to anti-communism. Inside you'll find dioramas depicting Communist crimes, photos of the 1960s show trials, and even bullet hole-ridden military uniforms. There's allarge monument to the self appointed saviours of the nation

Central Jakarta sights

Museum Nasional

On the western side of Merdeka sq, the National Museum built in 1862 is the best of its kind in Indonesia and is the one museum in the city that's essential visit. A very impressive new wing was added on the north side of the neo classical colonial structure in 2007. No photographs are allowed.
The museum has an enormous collection. Around the open courtyard is some magnificent statuary including a colossal 5.5m stone image of a Bhairawa king from Rambahan in Sumatra who is shown trampling on human skulls. The ethnology section is superb, with Dayak puppets and wooden statues from Nias bearing beards (a sign of wisdom) plus some fascinating textiles.
Over in the spacious new wing there are four floors with sections devoted to the origin of mankind in Indonesia, including a model of the Flores 'hobbit'. There's also superb display of gold treasures from Candi Brahu in Central Java, including some glittering necklaces armbands and a bowl depicting scenes from Ramayana
Outside the museum is bronze elephant that was presented by the King of Thailand in 1871 thus the museum building is popularly known as the Gedung Gajah (Elephant House)

Monas

Ingloriously dubbed Sukarno's Final erection,  this 132 m high National Monument, towering over Merdeka Sq, is both Jakarta principal landmark and the most famous architectural extravagance of the former president. Begun in 1961, this tupically masculine column was not completed until 1975, when it was officially opened by Suharto. The munument is constructed from Italian marble and is topped with a sculpted flame, gilded with 35 kg of gold leaf
In the base of the monument, the National History Museum tells the story of Indonesia's independence struggle in 45 dioramas using thunderbirds like models. The numerous uprisings against the Dutch are overstated but interesting; Sukarno is barely mentioned and the events surrounding the 1965 coup are whitewash.
Except smog tainted views from the top of the monument. Avoid sunday and holidays, when the queues for the lift are long.

Taman Prasasti

To the nortwest of the National Museum, which is actually the Kebon Jahe Cementry; important figures from colonial era are buried here.






Lapangan Banteng

Just east of Merdeka Sq, in front of the Hotel Borobudur Jakarta, Lapangan Banteng was laid out by the Dutch in the 19th century, and the area has some of Jakarta's best colonial architecture.
The Chatolic catherdal has twin spires and was built in 1901 to replace an earlier church. Facing the cathedral is Jakarta's principal place of Muslim worship, the striking. Modernist Masjid Istiqlal which was completed in 1978 to a design by Chatolic architect Frederich Saliban. The mosque has five levels, representing the five pillars of Islam; its dome is 45m across and its minaret top 90m. During Ramadan over 200.000 worshippers can be accomodated here. Non Muslim visitors are welcome. You have to sign in first and then you'll be shown around by an english speaking guide.

Gedung Pancasila

To the southwest is Gedung Pancasila, which is an imposing neoclasicall building neoclassical building built in 1830 as the Dutch army commander's residence. It later became the meeting hall of the Volksraad (Poeple's council), but is best known as the place where Sukarno made his famous Pancasila speech in 1945, laying the foundation for Indonesia's constitution. Just west a long Jl. Pejambon from Gedung Pancasila is the Emanuel church, another classic building dating from 1893